SPECIAL FINISHES TO GARMENT

Special Finishes to Garment

INTRODUCTION:

Unless any product is characterized by value addition it is now impossible to survive in this highly competitive world market. Processing is important to make a usable but finishing gives value addition to it. It makes garments attractive, comfortable & finishing can incorporate desirable properties. Finishing is the heart of textile processing.

Value addition = {(Technology) + (Innovation)} x Quality

Past are the days of traditional and conventional fabrics, which are super fed by fabrics with multi-functional finishes. Indeed, days are now of research and development of a huge spectrum of various advancements in fabric finishes in order to project world class fabric in the world class market at the most competitive rates .a range of new fabric finishes need to developed and manufactured which will give an innovative edge to the textile sector in various applications. In addition to the specialty we are unique for certain special application and more emphasis should be laid on the derivation of various textile finishes with numerous features and characteristics which should be merge for multifold applications to create “all in one universal application”.

Set against following background the driving forces for change in finishing of fabric have been considered to be the need for competitive strategy that utilizes;

• Chemical compatibility to provide one-shot multifunctional finishes.
• Cost reduction through process integration and minimizing the consumption of all utilities.
• More environmentally friendly and application method.
• Cost reduction through minimization of effluent treatment cost.
• Improve process control, monitoring and automation.
• Greater innovation in chemical finishes.
• Quick response through right-first-time, right-on –time, right-every-time finishing.

In this way, it should be possible for finishing department to satisfy the aesthetic and functional performance demands of customers, stimulate the market through the innovation to create greater novelty and variety and maintain a technical and a cost-competitive edge, while providing satisfactory solution to the environmental issues.

Finishing of textile fabric is carried out to increase attractiveness and/or serviceability of the fabric. Different finishing treatments are available to get various effects, which add value to the basic textile material. The domestic readymade garment sector is booming, and garment processing has emerged as one of the important production routes towards meeting quick changing demands of the fashion market. In this article discussed various special finishes to garment.

METHOD OF APPLICATION:

There are two methods of garment finishing.
• Dip process.
• Tumbling process.


Dip process: -

• Dip the garment inside out in finishing chemical keeping MLR 1:5. Washing machine may be used.
• Rotate the garment for 20 min.
• Hydro extract the garment to 70 to 80% pick up.
• Tumble dry at 70 0 C to moisture content 10 - 12 %.
• Turn the garment right side out.
• Iron/steam presses the garment to set the creases at desired places.
• Cure at 150 - 160 0 C

Tumble method: -

In this process the garment are placed (inside out) into a machine with sealed (not perforated) cylinder and application of recipe by either pumping or spraying. The drum is turned for 20 min there should not be excessive dripping of chemicals from the garment. If so more tumbling time is allowed. This method is being used more and more due to the fact that there is no wastage of chemicals. After saturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble dry at 70 0 C to 10 - 20 % pick up moisture content. The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set creases. Cure at 150 - 160 0 C for 8 - 10 min.

Important features: -

• MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the garment weighing 600 gm and 1:1 for those weighing more than 600 gm.
• Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min.
• Tumble rotation speed 20 - 30 rpm.
• Tumble drying temp. Should not be more than 70 0 C.
• Moisture retention after drying should be 10 - 12%.

1. BIOLOGICAL FINISHES

VARIOUS SPECIAL FINISHES APPLIED TO THE GARMENTS:

1. BIOLOGICAL FINISHES: -

1.1 Bio-polishing: -

To produce this effect cellulose enzymes were introduced. The regular acid acting celluloses produced following effects:

• More cutting
• Color loss
• Prone to contour patches
• Bluish heavy effect
• High back staining
• Economical

However, the desire was for enzyme, which was economical as acid cellulose and properties like the neutral acting celluloses. To achieve this, Genetically Modified enzymes were produced, called GMO's (Genetically Modified Organisms). It is known that enzymes have various activities (Endoglucanase I, II; etc.) Exoglucanase, cello-biohydrolase (CBH II) etc. With the advent of genetic engineering it is now possible to increase or suppress one or more of these activities to achieve tailor made results. The effectiveness of the catalytic core (to hydrolyse glycosidic linkages) depends greatly on the absorption by the CBD tail. When tightly bound to the substrate, certain endoglucanases disturb the crystalline structure and induces the various properties like fading, defibrillation, etc. as a result of the mechano-chemical effect. The G-zyme HCL and G-zyme FF series are products designed for good defibrillation but cuts less colour. The less colour loss is due to the fact that the dye is mostly reacted or embedded in the amorphous regions and the G-zyme HCL acts mostly in the crystalline regions.

Enzymes are naturally occurring proteins that are capable of catalyzing specific chemical reactions. Because they only catalyze the reactions and are not consumed, only a small quantity is needed. Cellulase enzymes are proteins that are capable of hydrolyzing (degrading) cellulose. Two kinds of cellulase are currently available: "acid cellulases" which exhibit the most activity in acid pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 and "neutral cellulases" that are active in the 5.5 to 8.0 pH range. Both enzymes are active within an optimal temperature range of about 45°C to 60°C. After the hydrolysis of cellulosic fibers to the desired extent, changing the temperature or pH level can deactivate the enzyme. Because the enzymes are natural proteins, readily biodegradable, they are a favorable alternative to many finishing chemicals and resins that are currently used.

The bio-polishing process targets the removal of the small fiber ends protruding from the yarn surface and thereby reduces the hairiness or fuzz of the fabrics. The hydrolysis action of the enzyme weakens the protruding fibers to the extent that a small physical abrasion force is sufficient to break and remove them. Bio polishing can be accomplished at any time during wet processing but is most convenient performed after bleaching.

It can be done in both continuous or batch processes. However, continuous processes require some incubation time for enzymatic degradation to take place. Removing the fuzz makes the color brighter, the fabric texture more obvious, and reduces pilling. Unfortunately, the treatment also reduces the fabric strength. Smoother yarns also increase the fabric softness, appearance and feel. Since it is an additional process, the bio-polished garments may cost slightly more. Next time you buy apparel, look for the label "Bio-Polished."

1.2 Denim Bleaching: -

Laccases enzymes are used to get outstanding contrast look on denim fabrics. They also eliminate all the negative effects of the indigo dye redeposition at the same time reducing the time of the process necessary to achieve a highly abraded look. Various effects are obtained on denim fabrics using Laccases.

2 PROTECTIVE FINISHES

2 PROTECTIVE FINISHES: -

2.1 Insect Repellent Finishing: -

An ANTIMO MGL a menthoglycol is a natural insect repellent active ingredient, derived from lemon eucalyptus, which is a natural and renewable source. Testing of Antimos MGL with a moderately aggressive cage population of Aedes aegypti mosquitoes resulted in no bites up to at least 4 hours. This indicates that the products has unusual repellency

2.2 Antibacterial Finishing: -

Microbes are minute organisms, which can be most dangerous for creating harm to our lifestyle in different ways. So to make the environment healthy, hygienic and fresh, it becomes very important to have the control over growth of the microbes and for these the garments / fabrics should be treated with some specialty chemicals, which can restrict the growth of these microorganisms. Antimicrobial finishing is one of the special types of finishing given to the textiles where the chances of bacterial growth are high and the safety is paramount.

Biquanides, phenols and their derivatives, isothiazolones, metals, ammonium compounds and alcohols serve as anti-bacterial agents in finishing recipe. Some other important chemicals are Zeolite (inorganic compound of sodium aluminose ), Triclosan ( a phenolic derivative), Chitin (extracted from shells of crabs and shrimps) and Quarternary ammonium compounds.

Action of Antimicrobial finish: -

Anti-microbial treatment on the undergarments controls the growth of microbes on it, which will in turn control the above effects.

Characteristics: -

• This type of finishing inhibits the growth of microbes on the surface of the fabric.
• Maintains hygiene and freshness, stops bad odour.
• Controls or eliminates microbial staining.
• Improves life of the articles wherever it is applied.
• Improves hand of most of the fabric.
• Eliminates the chances of disease transmission.

3. FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

3. FUNCTIONAL FINISHES: -

3.1 Cool Finish (Snocool): -

When temperature rises, we tend to sweat. This is a natural reaction of our body to maintain the temperature around 97°F.The sweat when evaporates, takes along with it heat equivalent to heat of evaporation of water, thereby maintaining the temperature of the body. The Snocool finish uses the moisture management route i.e. it will enhance the natural phenomenon of sweat evaporation. This finish absorbs and dissipates sweat evenly throughout and thus gives a cool feeling to the wearer.

Characteristics: -

• Garments finished with Snocool produces a cool effect.
• The finish has two fold effect, it reflects light (special polymer) and transfers moisture faster than normal from body to fabric and finally to the atmosphere.
• These finishing agents can be manufactured with or without fragrance.

3.2 Thermocat Finishing: -

• A finishing agent for producing heat retaining effect.
• This type of finishing when applied to the fabric keeps it warm.
• Produces heat retaining effect due to infrared radiation owing to its porosity.
• Especially suitable for 100% cellulose and its blends.

3.3 UV Protective Finish: -

The protection offered by UV cutting fabrics is expressed in terms of UV protection factor (UPF) or sun protection factor (SPF), which are equivalent to the user. UPF of 40 for a garment means the wearer can stay 40 times longer in the sun before skin reddening (erythema) sets in. other words if skin reddens in 15 minutes without UV cutting garment, the same level of reddening would take 10 hours, when UV cutting garment is worn. This means that UPF is a ratio of the time taken for skin reddings with and without protection.

Some facts and figure about UV cutting fabrics:

Cotton and silk display a high degree of UV transmission, hence the wearer needs more UV protection wool displays a low degree of UV transmission., hence the wearer may not need extra UV protection polyester fiber absorb UV rays by virtue of its chemical nature and the de-lust rant which it contains, hence the wearer may not need protection from UV.

Cotton fabric with porosity higher than 5% cannot have UPF of >20, despite the application of a UV absorber. If fabric porosity is too high, the UV absorber will not be effective even if applied in high concentration.

• For textiles needing UPF of 40+, the porosity must be <2%.
• Thicker textile materials have higher UPF
• Textiles treated with OBA show high UPF
• Textile dyed in dark shades display higher UPF
• UPF drops at least by half when fabric is stretched by say 10%
• UV absorbers are applied in higher than required dosages to minimize the risk of loosing UV protection when the garments get wet.

Japanese have though of “endless effect” meaning the “value-addition” to last the life of a textile material is mixed into the fiber core at the melt spinning process. This can absorb UV rays (UV cut effect) and also can reflect visible rays (heat shielding effect).

Characteristics: -

A specialty finishes for protecting the fabric from UV radiation. Protects human's underlying tissues from UV radiation. Protects against short wavelength radiation i.e. from 100 - 400 nm, Non-yellowing. Should be applied during dyeing under a reductive process Applicable by exhaust as well as padding method.

3.4 Flame Retardant Finish: -

Flame retardant finishing is not any finish used for textiles, but it is the need of an hour. The finished material is used not only to produce garments but carpets, curtains, etc. which are used in public places like hotels, theatres etc. The effective flame proofing of the materials used in these areas are of paramount importance.

Characteristics: -

Can withstand at least 50 washings. It also exhibits excellent fastness to dry cleaning using chlorinated solvents. Its application practically does not cause yellowing and modifies the handle of the articles. It is recommended to apply Flame shield CV 20 with thermosetting resins. Any change of the mechanical resistance of the articles treated with Flame shield CV 20 is generally low. However, the simultaneous use of thermosetting resins may result in an important loss of the strength, up to 20% of the initial value. In such cases, the use of polyethylene emulsion allows a significant minimization of the tensile strength loss.

3.5 Peach Skin Effect: -

In classical finishing of lyocell, peach skin effects are produced in rope form using Airflows and Air tumblers. Alternatives are produced in open - width finishing with special emery finishes e.g. emery papers coated with diamond dust are recommended which imitate effects comparable with the classical method.

Apart from Peach Skin effects, various finishes can naturally be applied to fabrics of Lenzing Lyocell such as calendaring, embossed effects, crepe or other special effects. With a liquor ratio of 1:12 to 1:15, the preventive agent against running creases, the dispersing agent, acetic acid and sodium acetate (0.5 gpl) are added initially. It is necessary to choose preventive agents against running crease and dispersing agents that do not hinder the activity of the selected enzyme (cellulose). The liquor is heated to the given optimum temperature (45 - 60°C) .The pH is adjusted with acetic acid (pH 5.5 - 4.5) followed by the addition of enzyme.

Enzymatic treatment: (Machine: Thies Roto Stream)

• Fibrolube HML: - 3.0 - 4.0 gpl
• Kleerix CR: - 0.5 - 1.0 gpl
• Genecel GLA: - 2.0 - 3.0 gpl

pH is adjusted to 5 with acetic acid and sodium acetate. Fabric is treated at 60°C for 60 min. Enzyme activity is inhibited by heating up to 85°C. Warm and cold rinsing is finaly given to the fabric.

3.6 AquaTex Finish: -

Traditional finishing processes for these fabrics usually require the addition of chemicals, in reality; however, these chemical compounds cause a shortening of the life span of such a fabric, its performance, and prohibit the possibility of recycling, and frequently involve significantly higher additional expenses for wastewater treatments.

The AquaTex system or for the enhancement of woven and some knit fabrics has been developed In lieu of these chemicals, which frequently are environmentally undesirable, the AquaTex system only uses regular water at ambient temperature to achieve accept ability of such fabrics in the trade and actually make them more marketable.

Main advantages of the aqua-tex system: -

• Increased thickness and density - the weave construction can usually be reduced significantly - and (he physical properties remain the same or actually improve.
• Softness - the fabric usually does not need any additional processes to obtain this property.
• Improvement In abrasion resistance - up to 50 % higher.
• A permanent mini-velour can be obtained in fabrics, which have spun weft or warp yarns.
• The fabric surface is very clean.
• Improved definition and clarity of the design and the colors.
• Reduced or eliminated use of environmentally harmful chemicals.
• More cost effective - elimination of traditional finish¬ing processes.

3.7 Feather touch & ultra soft touch: -

Feather touch & Ultra soft touch finishes are commercial names produced by treating with Amino, carboxy, or Epoxy Silicones alone or in successive treatments. Amino Silicones Extensively available in market are widely used in softening. They impart excellent softness With Bounciness when used in concentration 2.5 –3% of in garment finishing. Yellowing and some level of hydrophobic are the disadvantages. Epoxy silicones, which are most compatible with most of the other finishing chemicals, Impart softness without yellowing and improved fabric strength. They play a vital role in Wrinkle free finishes by imparting improved tear strength.

3.8 Rubbery touch: -

Rubber latex provide glossy, crispy handle with characteristic rubbery effect, which are durable. This effect gaining much more importance among the youngsters. In leather finish they are applied as final finish treatments after enzyme or stone wash or after mechanical abrasion and enzyme treatments. Many catching names such as “Bio polished &rubbery touch finish”, enzyme Bio polish & rubbery touch finish”, are quite common.

Preparation and application of emulsions: -

For finishing of textiles it is necessary to prepare aqueous baths with emulsions or micro- emulsions of silicone softener. The advantage of micro-emulsions is their thermodynamic stability and the drawbacks are higher fraction of surfactants and lowering of softness effect. Using non-ionic surfactants it is possible to prepare stable dilute micro-emulsions with more than 40% strength. The softness produced by micro-emulsions is similar to that of solvent solution. During application on jets it is necessary to control the liquor ratio as well as temperature and shear forces, to prevent the separation and silicone oil and formation of spots. The finishing of synthetics is less sensitive than that of cotton.

3.9 Non-stick Teflon spray: -

This is anew generation multipurpose lubricant based on poly tetra fluoro ethylene (PTFE). In service this lubricant forms a tenacious non-stick coating of the fluoro-polymer, which does not allow dirt and dust to settle on the textile surface. This makes the product ideal for cement plants, textile mills and industries etc. where constant flow of dust and contaminants affect the conventional lubricants.

3.10 Wrinkle free finishes: -

Easy care finishes producing cross-linking agent to avoid crease formation. It gives improved dimensional stability to the garments. But crease recovery property should with stand for repeated washes. They must suitable for cotton, P/C, P/V, blended fabric.

3.11 Water repellent finishes: -

Water and stain resistant finishes on fabric has gained considerable popularity amongst youngsters Water resistant finishes can be produced using Metal salts paraffin dispersion, Poly silioxanes, Fluorocarbons, These auxiliaries impart hydrophobic character; and of the above fluoro carbon polymers are extensively used in fabric finishing. They form a film where the fluorocarbon redials are perpendicular to the fiber axis and prevent wetting of the fiber surface. Their high hydrophobic & oleo phobic action is explained by the extremely low interfacial tension of fluorocarbon chain towards all chemical compounds. In actual practice fabrics are bio polished first with enzyme and fluorocarbons are applied either by spray method or dip method and fabrics are finally cured at 1500C for 10 minutes.

Fluorochemicals are organic compounds consisting of per fluorinated carbon chain. This is a film former that reduces the surface energy of a substrate, thereby providing one or more of the following properties:

• Oil Repellency
• Soil Resistance
• Water Repellency

How do fluorocarbons affect the surface tension?

Fluorocarbon from a thin film around the fiber, thus providing the fiber with a lower surface tension, is lower than most liquids. Finishing the fabric with Hydroguard makes the fabric sufficiently water repellent so that it can imitate the lotus leaf. Hydroguard is a special fluoro polymer manufactured by processes that do not produce any by-product.

3.12 Water resistant breathable finish: -

Present trend is to impart water-repellency without affecting water vapor permeability of fabric and garments for use in out door activities; weather-clothing etc. improving the transpiration rate of perspiration through the textile material is particularly important in sports activities where the relative metabolic rate is high. Water droplets but allow the escape of water vapor. Such types of garments are designed for sports-wear, tracksuits, clothing for mountaineering etc.

The chemicals consist of Quaternary ammonium Salt with the pyridine Base and a compound is formed with cellulose in the presence of sodium acetate.

The process sequence employed is pad –Dry –Cure-Soap-Rinse

Pad - water repellent chemical

Drying - 60-70 °C

Curing - 1200C for 2-3 mins.

3.13 Soil release and stain release finish: -

Soil release and stain release and stain release finishes are particularly important where leisure or sports are activities may lead to greeter incidence of soiling and staining. Another factor is the trend towards lower temperature washing of garments where the removal of persistent soil and stain removal becomes more problematic.

On this principle three major groups of finishes are developed.

• Finishes containing carboxylic groups.
• Finishes containing oxy ethylene and/ or hydroxyl groups.

4. BREAK IN LOOKS

4. WASH DOWN OR BREAK IN LOOKS: -

Wash down effects can be achieved by a variety of garment processing techniques which are mainly dependent on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producing different wash down or break-in looks. Garment dyed with indigo, pigments, reactive, vats, are washed in garment washing machine machines to affect a look to dyed fabrics. In garment washing the seams, waistband, pockets, cuffs, etc develop a contour, which can be obtained by washing in garment from only.

Washing down of garments is the latest development in fashion technology. Washing brings out special effects changing the feel and look of garments. Five good reasons can be attributed for washing the garments.

• To influence physical properties such as softness, handle, drape or fall , absorbency, creasing etc.
• To influence appearance by altering the nature of yarn of fabric or lustier. To create shrinkage & effects of shrinkage like puckering of garments. To create abrasion & related effects.
• To create a trend in fashion with consistent quality & brand image with range of finishes.

4.1 Stone wash: -

Pre-washed, abraded, faded either regular or irregular looks are produced by subjecting the dyed garments to severe washing treatments commonly known as stone wash garments.

In order to accelerate the garment wash effect and to give garments an even more unique appearance and softer hand, abrasive stones were introduced to the wash bath. A variety of natural synthetic stones are available for stonewashing with perhaps the most widely used being Pumice or volcanic rock. As the stones are used, they slowly disintegrate, reducing the severity of the stonewash effect over a period of time. The stones not only abrade the fabric but also gradually corrode the inside of the rotary drum. A machine used for stonewashing should not be used to dye when abrasion would be detrimental to the fabric.

Procedure: -

• Load stones into machine.
• Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight stones part weight garments).
• Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent. Liquor ratio 5-8: 1.
• Rinse.
• Refill and tumble with stones 30 to 90 minutes, depending upon desired effect. Liquor ratio 5-8: 1 at 50-70C. Scouring additives can also be used.
• Drain. Separate garments from stones (garments can be transferred to another machine). Rinse.
• Apply softener (garments can be transferred to another machine for softening).
• Extract and unload.
• De-stone and tumble dry. Press, if required.

Softeners and/or lubricants can be added during steps three and five to reduce creasing potential. Steps 8, 9, and 10 may vary depending upon individual mill arrangement

4.2 Stone wash with chlorine: -

By incorporating chlorine in the stonewash procedure, a cool or reduction of the indigo (or other chlorine sensitive dyestuff) is obtained. It is very important that any residual chlorine be removed before drying to prevent fiber degradation. This is accomplished by using an antichlor step with sodium bisulfate or hydrogen peroxide.

Procedure: -

• Load stones into machine.
• Load garments into machine (ratio usually 0.5 - 3.0 part weight stones: 1 part garments). Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent (liquor ratio approximately 10: 1). Rinse.
• Refill and add sodium or calcium hypochlorite.
• Heat to 55 0 C.
• Tumble 15 minutes.
• Add second portion of sodium or calcium hypochlorite.
• Tumble 15 minutes Maintaining temperature of 55 0 C.
• Drain.
• Rinse well.
• Antichlor with sodium bisulfate or hydrogen peroxide.
• Drain.
• Separate garments from stones (garments can be transferred to another machine). Rinse well.
• Apply softener.
• Extract and unload and De-stone and tumble dry.
• Press, if required.

Amount of sodium or calcium hypochlorite required will vary depending upon desired level of bleach down and the sensitivity of the color to chlorine. Each addition can range from 0.075% to 0.225% available chlorine. pH should be kept above 9.0, preferably 10.5-11.0. This is accomplished with the addition of soda ash with each addition of hypochlorite.

4.3 Ice wash: -

Either by accident or experimentation, a method was developed in which stones are used as a vehicle to deposit a chemical on garments to strip the colour. This surface deposit of chemical removes the color only on the outer surface of the garment and produces a frosted appearance. Indigo and selected Sulphur dyes are currently the most candidates for this procedure

Procedure:

• Soak stones in solutions of potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours. Concentrations ranging from 1.5% to 5% are being used commercially. (5% to 10% NaOCl can be substituted.)
• Stones should be drained of excess liquor. This can be accomplished by placing stones in net or mesh fabric prior to soaking. Then the stones can be removed and the excess drained off. Another alternative is to place the stones in a rotary tumble machine along with “waste” fabric and tumbling for several minutes to remove the excess solution. A third alternative is to use any number of the pre-soaked stones or materials available from suppliers. These are available in many different shapes with varying levels of chemical and other additives that produce different effects. Trials should be conducted to determine thee best method for achieving desired effects.
• Place stones and garments in machine (garments should be scoured and/or desized and dry or slightly damp).
• Tumble for 10-30 minutes or until desired effects are achieved. Results are dependent upon dyestuff, fabric, and concentration of chemicals, stones, additives, and equipment.
• In some cases, the stones can be reused for another load before re-soaking, depending upon their porosity. It is advantageous to transfer the garments to another machine for washing, minimizing the number of machines used for the corrosive process of ice washing.
• If potassium permanganate is used, manganese dioxide will form (a brown/orange color) and must be removed by treatment with sodium bisulfate, hydroxylamine sulfate, or acidified hydrogen peroxide as the reducing agent. Fill the machine with water and add 1-5gpl of the reducing agent. Heat to 50c and run for 20 minutes. The process is normally repeated twice to ensure complete removal of the manganese dioxide. When sodium hypochlorite is used the residual chlorine should be removed with sodium bisulfate or hydrogen peroxide. Adding jeans to machine already charged with after wash chemicals will increase contrast.
• Rinse well.
• Repeat step 6 if necessary.
• Apply softener.
• Tumble dry.
• Press, if required.

4.4 Cellulose wash: -

Cellulose enzymes have gained acceptance in the garment wash industry as a means to achieve a wash down appearance without the use of stones or with reduced quantities of stones. These enzymes are different from alpha amylase enzymes used for starch removal in that they are selective only to the cellulose and will not degrade starch. Under certain conditions, their ability to react with cellulose (cotton) will result in surface fiber removal (weight loss). This will give the garments a washed appearance and soft hand.

Procedure: -

• Load stones in machine (normally 0.5-2 part weight stones: 1 part weight garments) if applicable.
• Load garments.
• Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
• Rinse
• Add cellulase enzyme (amount, pH, temp. and cycle time dependent upon type of fabric and desired effects; manufacturer’s recommendations should be followed.)
• Adjust pH as recommended.
• Tumble 30-90 minutes.
• Drain
• Rinse well ( 70oC)
• Drain
• Rinse well ( 70oC)
• Drain. Separate garments from stones if used (garments can be transferred to another machine.)
• Apply softener.
• Extract and unload.
• De-stone and tumble dry.
• Press, if required.

After step 7, chlorine bleach may be used as described in stone wash with chlorine.
These are the two machines, which are used for garment steaming and stretching.

6. FADING IN DENIM FINISHING

6. OZONE FADING IN DENIM FINISHING:-

With finishes a hot concept, garment manufacturers and finishing units are innovating and experimenting with new techniques to get catchy finishes. Ozone fading in denims provides an interesting look to the garment. However, the procedure and methods to be adopted need to be carefully understood.

One of the key noxious by-products of urban photochemistry is ozone and this can reach dangerously high levels of 0.5 ppm. In the presence of UV light, there is an interaction between the hydrocarbons, oxides of nitrogen and oxygen that causes release of ozone (in addition to other compounds). The release is during the day time due to presence of sunlight.

Indigo dyestuff tends to fade or turn yellow due to ozone reaction. Ozone is present in atmosphere in most industrially active and urban dwellings and is formed in the presence of sunlight or UV light. The levels of ozone can reach dangerous levels of O.5 ppm and the deteriorating effect it has on denim apparel (particularly that stored in retail shelves) is practically irreversible.

The fading rate of indigo dyestuff is dependent on

1. The position of the dye in the fibre
2. Solubility and diffusion of ozone within the fibre and
3. Absorption of ozone on the surface of the fibre.

7. MICRO ENCAPSULATION FINISHES

7. MICRO ENCAPSULATION FINISHES:

Microcapsule: In simple terms, a miniature container that protects its contents from evaporation, oxidation and contamination until its release is triggered by gentle rubbing or shaking¡¨ during encapsulation, tiny droplets of benefit-laden products such as moisturizers, fragrances, deodorizers, vitamins, or repellants are wrapped with a protective coating to form a capsule.

The micro encapsulation of liquid, non-water soluble substances is one of our areas of high-tech specialism. This involves ¡§packaging¡¨ the substances in microscopically small capsules to seal them in hermetically, thereby preserving them.

Depending on the application, we can provide capsule diameters from 1 ƒÝ. The contents can be released in a controlled way by mechanical action, such as rubbing, pressing, cutting or scratching.

8. FRAGANCE FINISHES

8. FRAGRANCE FINISHES:

These are microencapsulated formulations of various fragrances like musk, pineapple, rose, lavender, jasmine, lemon, peppermint etc. which are applied on the fabric with the help of a binder. They impart fragrance when applied in this fashion.

Much of work is concerned with the microencapsulation of fragrance oils, e.g. perfumes and aromatics. The FOLCOScent® brand offers a wide range of technically mature products for scent marketing activities.

Bayer chemicals, a division of Germany-based Bayer AG, recently introduced Bayscent® microencapsulated aromatherapy products to the marketplace. The product features fragrances of Bayscent Neutralizer enclosed in a patented polyurethane microcapsule largely impermeable to diffusion. Fragrances range from fruity to flowery, while the neutralizer is designed to eliminate unpleasant odors.

Textile problem areas subjected to a high degree of stress in treaking mountaineering biling gear or sportswear, such as shoulders, knees and elbows, can be equipped with special more wear resistant fluorocarbon types.

Very soft fluorine polymers are available for woven microfibre fabrics which are very sensitive to harshness of handle due to finishing.

The polymer is modified with especiallysoft monomer components which have a so called “hinge action” in such a way that the film which these FC polymers form on the fiber is very soft.

9. HIGH WASH

9. HIGH “WASH PERMANENT” FC POLYMERS:

Highly cross-linked FC polymers are suitable for distinctive effects and permanence to washing, particularly on synthetic materials. These FC polymer modifications which have long been used in the medical protection textiles field are now also used in the equipment field, as for example in motor cycling clothing.

The high degree of permanence is produced by incorporating additional reactive groups in the polymer, and the co-responsibility often interrelated effect amplifier.

LAD FC polymer:

LAD is the English term for “Laundry Air Dry”.

The effect in the case of a fabric finished with an LAD product is generated simply by air drying. In addition to more optimum film formation, the combination of fluoroacrylate and effect amplifier brings about fluorine side chain stabilization by target produced stabilizing forces during the washing process.

The stabilization reduces fluorine side chain disorientation. While the oil water and dirt repellant properties are retained over the long term even without intermediate heat treatment.

In addition to the above mentioned effect promoting properties, the effect amplifier has high degrees of permanence-promoting reactivity, which already has a complete effect at very low curing temperature.

The technological performance of functional outdoor and active sports wear is considerably improved by fluorocarbon finishing.

10. SHRINK PROOF FINISH

10. RESIN LESS SHRINK PROOF FINISH

A new shrink-proof process for cellulose clothing material such as cotton or rayon fabrics has been developed. The distinguishing feature of the new process is the achievement of remarkable properties through a physiochemical approach without using any chemical agent such as resin.

There is a crystal conversion from Cellulose I to Cellulose III by liquid ammonia treatment and reconversion to Cellulose I on hot water treatment. The degree of this crystal conversion and reconversion is proportional to its treatment temperature and time.

In other words, cellulose fiber can swell sufficiently through ammonia liquor treatment and at the same time there is crystal conversion from I to III. When hot water treatment is carried out, the crystal reconverts from III to I, but this time without changing the shape of the fiber. These changes occur in the crystalline and non-crystalline region both and hence the whole structure gets stabilized and no deformation due to water absorption will occur afterwards.

Thus, good crease recovery and wash-n-wear properties are achieved. It is easy to pleat during ironing so even tailor-made shirts can be finished.

Further if pleats and creases are added before hot water treatment, permanent durable press finish is obtained. In addition to all these effects, quick property is also achieved in Celtopia finished fabric.

Celtopia as a multi-functional finish:

The features of Celtopia can be summarized as follows:

1. Resin-like shrink-proofing without resin.

2. Durable crease without resin.

3. Possible to wash Rayon and Cupro with water.

4. Less occurrence of skin irritation due to pure cellulose.

5. A fresh feel thanks to the high-level of water and moisture absorbency.

6. Additional quick-dryness.

7. Environmentally friendly.

11. EXTRAORDINARY FINISHES

11. EXTRAORDINARY FINISHES:

11.1 Fabric with pulling power:

A new finish has been developed that involves the fabric to be impregnated with pheromones, which are said to attract the members of opposite sex. These are so-called first-shirt and give its wearers and advantage over their rivals. Pheromones are hormone based scents that arouse the senses of person in vicinity.

11.2 AQUA FINISH:

Uniquely finishes woven fabrics have been produced with hydro entanglement finishing. The principle involved is that the amount of bonding in the fabric is directly related to the energy imparted to the cloth.

The basic process requires the application of high pressure water jets in the form of a curtain on the woven or knitted fabric. The hydraulic energy causes in the cloth to bulk and expand and individual fibers to entangle. The resultant fabric is softer, supple with better drape and durability.

Conclusion

CONCLUSION:

The scope of textile finishing is very broad. Only innovative products will be able to open up new markets and new horizons for textile industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in further research and development.

Globalization has opened the door to competition at the highest level. Every industry should now produce products that are best in terms of quality and price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive and prosper. The major trust areas in the coming years will very much center on:

1. Customized solution
2. Process optimization
3. All in one universal application.
4. Global competitiveness
5. Technological up gradation

What is needed is not simply conveyance of knowledge but the development of truly creative researchers. The textile industry needs to shift its emphasis from quantity to quality in the new millennium of global competition era.

The driving force for change in chemical finishes are the need for a competitive strategy by cost conscious finisher to add value , enhance quality and provide the greater levels of service to customers through “ Right first time, right on time , right every time .” finishing . Compatibility is essential top provide one short multifunctional finishes that can be applied simultaneously

Women Apparel

Woman Apparel

Through exercise and fitness regimens, women have been able to maintain a higher degree of energy and zest, and that is exactly what they need when they go shopping for athletic woman apparel. Shopping for athletic woman apparel is tiring, because the styles and sports activity choices are abundantly mind boggling.

Athletic woman apparel can be as simple as a T-shirt that you can wear during a soccer game that will keep the sweat in check through tumultuous rounds of running from one end of the playing field to another. Or, this same T-shirt can also serve as a designer shirt style that bears a company logo and looks positively fantastic with a pair of jeans that were purchased elsewhere for a good price.

Women athletes are a rare breed of woman that find great pleasure in all types of competitive environments. The best competitive area that they find so enthralling, are the shopping malls that surround their city. These concrete and brick enclosures are viewed as a totally different type of playing field, and one that will outfit them with athletic woman apparel they can use in other sports too.

The storefronts and boutiques that specialize in their type of athletic woman apparel fashion wear are places that serve as arenas in which they can prove their shopping savvy. They can adorn their bodies with athletic woman apparel fashioned as training suits that can serve double duty when it is worn while doing the shopping exercises they love so much every week. These savvy shoppers have quickly learned how to get more for their money. They use their heads when they shop and find that the comfortable track pants that they find so stylish and form fitting, can be attractively matched with a gorgeous assortment of jackets that will make them feel as though they are part of a team.

These shopping women who shop for athletic woman apparel are team members in the sport of shopping. These smart shoppers routinely team together to find great bargains, and have a great time doing it. They use their smarts to stretch their shopping dollars, and quickly find that the terry fabrics in these attractive athletic woman apparel pieces are offered in hooded styles, that will keep the burn going even when they are cooling down after a long, vigorous exercise regimen at the mall.

Rest periods in this sport do not occur very often, and when they do, it's not for very long either. There are so many retailers and so little time, and these women find themselves back out, searching for bargains in athletic woman apparel because they know they are going to need it. Not only is their business life active, but their shopping schedules are even more grueling.

These expert shoppers want to be dressed in the most popular styles that they can find, and the shopping effort alone will keep them moving at such a brisk pace, that they rarely have the energy to review the sales ad about the bargains to be found in athletic woman apparel. One team member will do the work, and the rest of the team will profit from their efforts.

About the author:
Peter Gilbert writes about Gap Online Bargains, Capris Online Discount Codes and Womens Fashion Coupons

Start T-Shirt Business

How To Start T-Shirt Business

Selling T-Shirts has become big business and it's a growing industry on the Internet where there are already thousands of shops and websites where you can purchase almost any design or T-Shirt style imaginable. Thanks to the many T-Shirt companies that now print and create the T-Shirts for you, with no risk involved, many people have been able to start their own T-Shirt business without having to invest any money. This however, has turned the T-Shirt business online into a fierce, competitive battle against all T-Shirt shop/website owners.

There are now millions of T-Shirt websites online for customers to choose from and this is why starting your own online T-Shirt business can be stressful, disappointing, and very difficult to attract customers and make the sales that you are expecting. Now, I'm not saying it's impossible, I'm just saying it's going to take a lot of time, effort, and maybe even some money for you to get started and get customers visiting your shop/website.

There are many things you need to consider when starting your own online T-Shirt business. Simply creating a design, putting it on a blank T-Shirt, and expecting it to be a big seller isn't going to do the trick and bring you many sales, unless of course, you are a very lucky person, whom I can assure you, there aren't very many of them around. If you want to start a T-Shirt business just to make easy money fast like many other schemes on the Internet claim, then you're looking at the wrong business. There is no such thing as easily making money fast and you're always going to have to put in the effort to get the results you are looking for, especially for a T-Shirt business.

Now, I'm not trying to scare you from owning your own T-Shirt business, as there are many successful individuals who have started their business in the T-Shirt industry and are doing very well. I just want to give you the facts of reality so that you're not disappointed when your business isn't doing as well as you thought it would. You may succeed at one aspect of the business, but fail in another, or you just might be that person who is successful at all the aspects of the business, which will obviously make your business a success. Either way, you're still going to have to spend the time and work very hard to achieve success.

Below I've listed some of the things you need to consider before you setup or start your own T-Shirt business:

Business Goals

Before you start your own T-Shirt business, you need to think of your business goals. These goals should be realistic and they should point you in the direction you would like your business to go and what you hope to accomplish. An example of a goal would be to have 100 visitors visiting your shop/website a day or to create two new designs a week and put them up on your website. Whatever the goals may be that you have set for yourself, you then need to strive for them and once you have accomplished your goals, then you know you're on the right track.

Passion

You have to have an interest in what you are doing or you're not going to enjoy spending the time and effort your business requires. Everybody has a passion in one thing or another whether it is creating the designs, promoting, or any other aspect of the business, but you should have an interest in it. If you're not passionate about a certain subject, then you need to think of another theme that you would be more interested in doing. Remember, you are going to spend a lot of time on the subject/theme that you choose, so if you aren't passionate about it, then you're going to get bored very fast and it's not going to be enjoyable.

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Subject/Theme

This is very important in the T-Shirt industry as some subjects/themes do much better than others and receive more customers, but like all styles, they come and go. It's possible to have a general subject/theme, but it makes it harder for you to market/promote your shop/website. I suggest choosing just one subject/theme to begin with as you can start adding other subjects/themes later when you are established. You should by all means choose a subject/theme that you are knowledgeable about and have a passion for, like I mentioned under the passion paragraph.

Target Audience

Who are you targeting? Will you be targeting a certain age group, occupation, style, general public, etc. Finding out who your primary target audience will be or is, will help you with marketing/promotion. This will also help you with creating and designing your T-Shirts and shop/website to suit your target audience. Once again you can choose to go for a general audience, but this will only make it harder for you to market/promote your shop/website.

Research

You need to always do your research and find out what's new, what's not, what's in style, what kind of designs people are looking for, etc. You also need to keep up-to-date with your subject/theme as some change on a regular basis (Example: Politics). Keeping informed and up-to-date will give you the leading edge over your competitors, bring back customers time after time, and most importantly it will make sales.

Third Party shops Vs. Your Own Website

Should I invest in my own website or use a third party website to host my T-Shirt designs? If you are thinking about doing every aspect of the T-Shirt business yourself (including making the T-Shirts), then I suggest you invest in a website (not a free website hosting service), but first try out a third party website that makes the T-Shirts for you (no risk involved or investment needed) to see if you can make your business a success. Once you're confident in your business, then you can upgrade to making and owning your own website.

There are many online third party websites available on the Internet that you can choose from that will create and ship the T-Shirts to your customers (risk free with no money invested) and therefore, save you the hassle of actually having to deal with the customer aspect of your T-Shirt business. There are as many cons as there are pros when using a third party service. Some of the cons are: You don't get your own website and you are in some way connected to them, you don't make as much profit (you have to pay them to do all the work, like printing the T-Shirts and shipping), and they make all the rules (Example: not providing you with the E-mail address of your customers or refusing any designs that you create). When you sign up with one of these third party services, you are actually working for them and that includes promoting their site. The customers that purchase your T-Shirts are actually their customers meaning they have full control and every time you make a sale, they make a profit. In other words, these third parties depend on your success and if your business goes under, theirs doesn't because there'll always be someone else to take your place.

Marketing/Promoting

This will be your biggest enemy in the T-Shirt business and many businesses fail because of this. I suggest you do your research on the web for SEO (Search Engine Optimization) and about how the basic search engines works, as there is a lot of information about them. Do not just resort to search engines as being your source for traffic as there are many other websites that can help bring in quality targeted traffic to your website like T-Shirt ranking sites (Example: www.T-ShirtShowdown.com).

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The major search engines (Example: Google) are complicated in how they work and many people have been trying to figure out how they work for years. The search engines change their algorithms on how pages are ranked every once in a while so you're better off not focusing your attention on just getting to the top in the search engines.

If you do manage to make it to the top and are very successful, then your marketing/promotion shouldn't stop there. You have to always be marketing/promoting your site one way or another because it won't take long before someone else over takes you, simply because links can die and you need incoming links from other websites to get traffic.

T-Shirt Ranking Websites

Do ranking sites work? Yes, ranking websites are a great way to market/promote your T-Shirt designs and shops/websites. Many people don't want to waste their time searching all over the web trying to locate websites that sell specific designs that they are looking for. This is where T-Shirt ranking websites come in handy and allow customers to view thousands of different T-Shirt designs and styles from many different websites. Ranking sites are a great way of bringing many unique and different T-Shirt websites/designs together and help to bring the buyers to the sellers. www.T-ShirtShowdown.com is a great example and offers many different categories to choose from including: Animal, Artistic, Attitude, Automobile, Biker, Computer, Floral, Funny, Holiday, Kids, Logo, Misc., Movie, Music, Novelty, Occupation, Offensive, Patriotic, Pets, Political, Religious, Sports, Unusual, Vintage, and Western.

Many T-Shirt business owners think that they can just upload their T-Shirt designs to a ranking website and expect to receive sales. This is a myth and it's not true. Ranking sites, like www.T-ShirtShowdown.com, bring high quality targeted traffic to your website, but it's your T-Shirt designs in the end that have to convince the customer to buy/purchase the product. T-Shirt ranking websites only make it easier for you to market/promote your site/designs and to get the high quality targeted traffic that every business wants.

Below I've included some advice, problems, and solutions from other T-Shirt businesses that they encountered when they were starting their own T-Shirt business.

For MindTrix the hardest part for starting out, besides money, was finding a "nitch". Our first line of T-Shirts was all over the map, so starting your own clothing company can be hard. I had to do and learn everything on my own. I over came this obstacle by going to tradeshows, surfing the Internet, and reading magazines like Sport and Street, etc.

MindTrix has grown beyond just T-Shirts due to the fact that everyone including their moms have a T-Shirt company. When I would go into stores trying to sell my T-Shirts, I would always get feedback, like what makes these any better than the other 90,000 brands we have in here, which most of these other brands people have heard of, and that is why we graduated to cut and sew as well as any higher end T-Shirts.

You have to stay ahead of the pack to survive. www.myspace.com/mindtrix

Advice for Promotion: Don't be afraid to advertise. Create buttons, stickers, give them out and be sure people remember you. Tell people about it, you'd be surprised how many people would be willing to help you out.

Advice for Designing: When designing A T-Shirt, there are many points to keep in mind, but the following factors are some technical stuff overlooked by companies starting off: The Number of colors used & what material will be used. Most screen printers charge in the $10-$40 range for every different color you use. It can get really expensive for someone (Example: music bands) to get several T-Shirts printed. They then have to sell the fans $36 dollar T-Shirts just to cover the costs and make some profit.

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The Material used: Usually each material/brand/size comes with a set of colors that they're printed on. There isn't one that provides you with every single color in existence. It would be a great idea to ask the client what material they can afford and then research it, or familiarize yourself with the more popular brands that are being printed on (Examples: American Apparel, Fruit Of the Loom and Hanes). I've had several problems with this when I began, so don't just go creating something that only looks good on a red background that you can't easily fix, or something that looks good on a T-Shirt color that's almost impossible to find. This will save you so much time and trouble.

Lastly, but most importantly, just be original. Keep the designs more personalized, deeper and more meaningful. www.myspace.com/deathby_santiago

1. Vision. You need to know who you are, what you're doing, why, etc. This will define how you market your product, how it looks over all, and all the little details within that you need to do. Yep, so figure that out and then go nuts because you can't go wrong with a big idea, as long as you know what the big idea is.

2. Marketing. It's essential in today's design world. You might have a good product but if its weak on branding, labeling, packaging, shelf appeal, matching coat hangers, etc., it'll look bad. Consistency also needs to be achieved across the spectrum including same font, same style, etc. Designing is totally open to new creations and ideas, so anything goes, but there are some boundaries that you don't want to cross, while others you need to break through.

3. E-commerce. Yes, it's fully possible! It will take some setting up though, but I've recently realized how I can just pick up the phone and order a set of hoodies, wait four days until they're on the doorstep, pay for them a month later online, etc. Also, I can call up the fabric company down the road, or one in Wellington, get them to send me samples of denim, call them back and order a set amount of denim to be sent to my garment manufacturer, and then call him and tell him how many of what I want right from my rocking chair at home.

4. Online selling. Totally possible if you use ebay or know how to set up an E-commerce website yourself, but getting the credit card system sorted out is a major cost. Lots of girls shop online now, you just need to know how to market it right and get your products noticed.

5. Promo. Get it out there! Make sure your friends buy your products or you could give out freebies. Put stickers, advertising your shop, wherever you can. Be shameless because designers are really admired (as opposed to being a 'salesperson'), especially if your product is favorable.

6. Don't waste your time on silly details. I'll let you figure out what those are.

7. Get your accounts sorted out now. Segregate your personal and business spending, so you can claim back GST with no problems. Make sure every transaction (sales, purchasing, spending, etc.) goes through your account, so you can see how well you're doing by looking at your bank statement. Use the ATM machine for petty cash; your accountant will love you one day for this.

8. Have fun! It's not the end of the world if it doesn't work out. I was just thinking how involved my life is at the moment with my T-Shirt business. My life revolves around it, which is crazy, but if it all fell apart and closed down tomorrow I'd be the same person and I'd find something else to do! I make sure I take one day off during the week to do what I love that doesn't involve my work. I love doing my work, so I'm very lucky in that aspect, but sometimes it gets boring or tedious so I make sure I stay fresh and focused.

9. Work hard. I still do after three years. I work my butt off and hardly make any money off it, but I know it's worth it in the long run and the things you learn along the way are invaluable.

10. Give away free stuff! People love free T-Shirts and sponsorship goes a long way. It's also your duty, being in business and generating wealth, to share that with society in some way (Example: Old stock goes in recycle clothing bins, etc.).

About Author:

www.T-ShirtShowdown.com - The Ultimate T-shirt Website on the Internet. You can Rank, Vote, Comment, E-mail, Visit T-Shirt Websites, Auction, Bid, Sell, Buy, Promote/Market T-Shirts and more.

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Health Warnings

Health Warnings on Clothes

A provocative article featured in the Daily Mail voiced concerns about the UK’s growing population of overweight people. Naveed Sattar; Professor of Metabolic Medicine at the University of Glasgow has outlined how we might deal with the problem. This has prompted me to write a response.

I write both on a personal level since I am part of that statistic (5’ 5” size 16/18, middle age overweight woman) and as the Director of a retail fashion business that specializes in size 16 plus fashion.

All my adult life I have struggled to keep my weight in check. One of the things that has constantly put salt in the wound was the lack of attractive clothes size 16 plus. Even when some stores did offer a plus department it always seemed there was a lack of an attractive environment – I didn’t want to be shoved in the back of the shop or worse still, sent down to the basement. I wanted to shop in Joseph and Harvey Nichols. A stroll down Bond Street or Sloane Street would be frustrating and depressing. Indeed, these are the emotions that inspired me to start the company.

I believe that every woman has the right to be able to present herself in the most attractive way possible. We work with what she has not what she has not. All women should be able to buy beautiful clothes. This is not something that should be exclusive to thin people and larger women should not be prejudiced against.

Should the exclusive design shops such as Armani, Donna Karan, Gucci, Chloe and Nicole Farhi etc. be more flexible then I would be out of business.

Having outlined why Beige exists and our philosophy, back to the article... the headline in the Daily Mail “Obese should have health warnings on their clothes” was a mis-quote. The professor actually suggested “Oversize clothes should have obesity helpline numbers sewn on them to try and reduce Britain’s fat crisis”.

This crisis, by the way is not exclusive to Britain. It is a problem for most wealthy western countries. I accept that being overweight can be bad for your health – heart disease, cancer, joint problems, diabetes and so on are more prevalent amongst those of us who are overweight. Why it is of particular concern to Britain is because we have a National Health Service - we do not have to pay for our health care. In America there is no such a service and presumably overweight people pay higher health insurance premiums.

I understand the professor’s concern over what he has defined as ‘Britain’s fat crises. I agree that something should be done about it. But sewing in labels into clothes?

My quick answer to all of you who have asked what I think is, NO!

Why, No?

It will make the situation worse!

I should think this proposed label would drive many to the comfort of the nearest chocolate bar. Those of us who are part of the fat crisis statistic know that we are fat. We know it’s not great for our health; in fact many are already suffering the side effects as listed above.

Educate Britain’s children about healthy lifestyles by all means, but please be more sensitive and less judgmental to those people who are overweight.

Health warnings on junk food are acceptable, clearly marked labels on all food products is a great idea - most supermarkets have improved their labeling.

The very idea of putting labels on people’s clothes in this manner has an extremely sinister feel to it – where does it all lead? Where does the responsibility of a government for the people begin and end?

Why are we allowed to purchase cars that have the capacity to exceed the speed limit... surely that can’t be good for our health?

We are allowed to over spend…indeed encouraged to do so... so should our credit cards be capped to reflect our earnings?

Why just pick on fat people? There are many other groups of people who put a strain on the government’s resources.

I am not saying that it is ok to be overweight - however if for what ever reason one finds oneself not able to wear clothes less than size 16 then it is not our place to judge.

About Author:

Leanda Walters is a director of Beige Plus Ltd the retail outlet for plus size clothing.

Outdoor Clothing Principles

Principles Comfort for Outdoor Clothing

If you are in the great outdoors, sometimes the problem isn't just to stay dry - you must be comfortable. So how is this achieved?

One of the greatest benchmarks of comfort when working or spending leisure time in the outdoor world is the degree of dry warmth you experience. All people are different in their warmth requirements - what may be okay for one person may be far too cold or hot for another. The clothing needed to maintain a comfortable average is happily readily available - but using it properly needs understanding in order to be effective.

Let's say that you are a hiker or rambler. I use this example from experience as I have been trudging around the UK countryside for years! However, the 'model' applies to whatever outdoor activity you take part in - hunting, fishing, hiking or just being a spectator at an outdoor event. However, any activity that requires varying physical effort - such as hiking - will produce the widest 'discomfort band' of all.

The reason is simple. Whilst walking along flat, level ground the level of effort remains fairly constant. Your body, a chemical engine, will convert its reserves to provide you with the 'cruising level' of energy needed to maintain this sustained, low-level effort. For this reason you will reach a median level of energy expenditure, part of which is converted to heat - which is why you become warm. As long as this effort remains constant, comfort is easily achieved.

Now a steep hill looms. Your body goes into 'bottom gear' as you lift your body weight against gravity to conquer the slope. The energy demands on your body rise dramatically and far more heat is produced. If your body can't dissipate that heat - you get hot. It's as simple as that.

Your body has one aim in mind: to keep your core temperature at a steady 98.6 degrees F. (37 degrees C.). It has two main methods of regulating this temperature - perspiration to cool and shivering to warm. Either method can be a cause of discomfort, so it seems logical that, if possible, you should aid your body in its attempts to maintain a comfortable temperature. Now, unless you sit still in a chair all day this ideal temperature will fluctuate. You're not likely to notice much change much in everyday situations, but outdoor activity is different. So how do you cope with the problem?

The answer is a principle called 'layering'. It works on the theory that several thin layers are more flexible - in terms of temperature control - than one thick layer. An ideal layering system would consist of a light, thin 'fleece' or insulating shirt (lower body garments can be added for colder conditions), then a lightweight insulating and windproof jacket, then a waterproof and 'breathable' outer shell garment. The inner garment is, in some ways, the most important. When purchasing such a garment, ensure that it possesses excellent 'wicking' properties - that is, it will transport perspiration away from the skin effectively. This is essential. Perspiration left on the skin can cause rapid chilling that can be very uncomfortable indeed! The three-layer effect ensures that layers can be removed or added very quickly in order to maintain a comfortable body temperature.

Layering garments are available from all good outdoor clothing stores and the staff are generally knowledgeable - if they aren't, go elsewhere! Layering is without doubt the finest way to maintain comfort in normal to cold conditions. Real arctic conditions are beyond the scope of this article and specialist advice should be sought if you're planning expeditions in these areas.

A last word about totally waterproof jackets. Yes, they will keep the water out - which is not the same as keeping you dry, especially if, like myself, you 'run hot' when hiking. No jacket can change a physiological response - if the humidity and water/air saturation outside the jacket exceeds the conditions next to your body, you'll still get wet - but from your own perspiration! Therefore, the more 'breathable' the jacket material the more comfortable you will be - even if a little rain does get through!

In closing, I would advise anyone who plans to start outdoor activities to pay attention to the clothing required - the method outlined above really can make the difference between a pleasurable experience and one you would rather forget!

About Author:

Steve Dempster is actively involved in running several websites and spends part of his working day creating short, informative articles such as the one above. More info on walking at the Countrywalkers website!

Fashion Dress for Success

Dress for Success

If you want to get the promotion you are after, the deal you want to close or the girl of your dreams, then formal wear can help in business people respect you and remember women always love men in suits!

Getting the right look with men’s formal wear is not hard let’s find out how to dress for success in simple steps.

Let’s Start With the Suit.

Style

Men’s fashion changes, but you can't go wrong with a single-breasted, solid color suit in black, grey or dark blue. A single-breasted suit has the advantage of making you look slimmer in appearance as well. In men’s formal wear a stylish suit conjures up a number of images that can all help you succeed in business or your private life. A suit can give an image of any or all of the following: Power, maturity, conservative, style or sexy.

Fabrics and Patterns

Wool is always a good choice; it looks great and wears well. Worsted wools are lightweight for the hotter months. Gabardine wools are heavier and great for the colder weather. Patterns for interview and business meetings should be limited to solids, stripes (pinstripe, chalk stripe, beaded-stripe), Glen plaids, and checks (hounds-tooth, windowpane, and herringbone).

The Shirt

Men with slim faces can wear collars that are wider, to help broaden their faces; on the other hand, men with wider faces can wear collars that are narrower, to help lengthen the faces.

Ties

Suits come in basic styles and colors, but ties can allow you to stamp your individuality.
Today, many men don’t wear ties and it’s a matter of choice but if you do you will add a personal touch and show that you mean business. To make a statement wear a patterned tie with a patterned shirt. All you need to remember is that the color schemes are the same and that the patterns have to go in the same direction, to look coordinated. Don’t forget the Length: It should hit the top of your belt and the Ideal width of ties is between no more that four inches at its widest.

Combining Tie’s Shirts & Suits

When choosing a jacket-shirt-and-tie trio, match its level of color contrast to your coloring, that’s your complexion and hair color. If you're coloring is high-contrast say, dark hair and light skin, or vice versa--your jacket, tie, and shirt combo should be high contrast, too to match. If your hair-hide contrast is softer and lighter i.e. you're blond or gray-haired with pale skin, or dark-skinned with dark hair then you should choose lower-contrast clothes.

Two different scales For Balance

When you're combining two like patterns in the jacket-shirt-tie triangle, they should be of different gauges. If your suit has pinstripes 3/4 inch apart, your tie should have broader or thinner bands. If your suit is a striped one (with lines more than an inch apart), your shirt’s stripes should be narrower. Also, if your shirt has a narrow stripe, your tie needs a wider stripe i.e. pair large with small. Always look for balance.

De Emphasize

Choose clothes that de-emphasize your extremes. If you're short, look for strong vertical elements: pinstriped suits, two-button jackets. If you're thin, choose a jacket with wider shoulders to make you look broader. If you have a heavier build then wear darker colors and go monotone.

Watches

Choose a large face, as these designs are generally accepted by everyone as looking stylish and business like.

Belt

A good quality belt doesn’t have to be expensive and is a great investment. Your belt color should be matched with your shoes.

Shoes

Black is the traditional safe color for work but Brown or ox blood colors can also look good. Use a variety of styles including loafers, wingtips, round-toe, or pointy-tipped shoe. Shoes are no place to economize, so get a quality pair and keep them clean!

Comouflage Fabric

Comouflage Fabric

Do you want to be hidden? Trying to blend in with your surroundings? Camouflage fabrics are the just the thing.

There are many different types of Camouflage fabrics on the market today. Some are heavy duty camo material for hunters and fisherman. There are patterns for the military men and women serving our country at home and abroad. There are cotton Camouflage fabrics in many different colors for the sewer and quilter alike.

There is a new Camouflage fabric on the market called Nature-Raised and it is a special fabric created by adding natural shapes from nature to the fabric. These special textures refract the light, thus breaking up reflection and stopping glare and shine, making your camo work for you, not against you! Unlike many of the slick, smooth, shiny fabrics on the market, this fabric helps you become a part of the woods, not a large shiny object. Many other fabrics are made only in one or two steps; the new Nature-Rised fabric is made of 8 layers and procedure, each having a special function to create the ultimate hunting fabric.

It is burr proof and won't snag or grab the brush. It is soft and quiet. It is tough and comfortable, strong and wind-proof, water-repellent. It won't fade or shine. What this means to the hunter is more successful hunts! When the folks at Nature-Rised set out to make the ultimate Camouflage, they quickly realized that there were only so many ways you could arrange sticks, trees, leaves, trees and limbs. So they decided that in order to make a better Camouflage, they had to make a better fabric.

Through years of working in textiles and personal experiences in the field, they noticed that there were many problems with fabrics that were being used in the manufacture of camo clothing. For instance, some fabrics faded quickly, some attracted debris, such as burrs and beggar lice. Some grabbed everything it came in contact with and some were noisy and stiff. In addition, many of the fabrics were not very durable, some had little if any resistance to weather and if it did, it was very hot and not breathable. Last, but not least, the problem with most of the fabrics had a tendency to shine and glare from reflected light. So they turned their attention to the development of a fabric that would far surpass anything on the market today. The innovative Camouflage fabric called Nature-Rised is the next generation of Camouflage.

So if you are looking to be discreet, in the woods, on the battlefield or on the lake, look for a quality Camouflage fabric. It does make a difference what you wear. If you are looking for fabrics to decorate with or to wear for fun, many colors of Camouflage are available, even blues and pinks for the young at heart. Bandanas are popular in Camouflage patterns for dress up for young children. Costumes for birthday parties are fun in the bright faux camo patterns also. Choose your level of Camouflage!

About Author:

Mariette Wingeier is an independent manufacturer of sewing products in her local community. She is also a freelance writer for numerous of quilting and sewing pattern books. To get a free sneak preview of her book “The Art of Quilting Fabric” which shows you ideas on how you can turn your fabrics into wonderful creations, go to Jonnesway